Nowhere else on earth is any one square mile of downtown so saturated with the supernatural! Here are some of our stops in Historic Downtown, where Hawaii's monarchy, and its last queen, were overthrown from their gilded perch in a fairy-tale palace (where these days, the queen's spirit is to be seen gliding about the palace grounds, about a half-hour before it gets light). The statue of King Kamehameha, who unified the islands after a battle that took more than 10,000 lives... and celebrated hi

Who would imagine that such a happy place has such a tragic history? Hawaii's tumultuous encounter with the outside world began with the arrival of Captain Cook, whom they ate, sort of, for his troubles. A few years later, King Kamehameha celebrated his conquest of Oahu in 1795 by sacrificing his own cousin. The missionaries, who arrived in 1820, came here to do good... and did very well. Then there was the demographic bomb of waves of imported labor to cut sugar cane. Then the overthrow of the

A Tour of Waikiki's Dark Side